If you put a spacer between the crank shoulder and the chain ring you move the crank to the right in the bottom bracket but the chain ring won't move.
#1piece to 3 piece cranks kit manual
The distance between the chain ring and the frame is determined by the "Stationary cone" - as seen in the Schwinn service manual picture below.
If your current frame clearance with the chain rings you have is very close you may have a problem. It's more likely you'll have frame clearance problems with chain ring 2.
Swapping it for a double effectively moves the two outer chain rings in toward the frame one chain ring. This design is a single chain ring (the smallest one) with two chain rings bolted to the single chain ring. You are less likely to have frame clearance problems with chain ring 1. Swapping for a double would be like removing the small chain ring. This design is essentially a double chain ring with a smaller chain ring riveted on the inside. If you don't have any chain line issues today you won't need a spacer. Looking at the drawing, either way your chain line won't be any worse than it is today. Single chain ring with two chain bolted to the outside.ĭrawing a picture of what it would look like to swap in a double chain ring in both situations. You have to swap out the whole chain ring set as you are planning.Ĭhances are you have a chain ring that looks like this:ĭouble chain ring with the a small chain ring riveted on the inside. Most of them do not have inter-changeable chain rings. There are several ways triple chain rings for steel cranks are made. As Criggie points out you will need to worry about front derailleur height to clear the larger chain ring.As Argenti and mikes point out, you will need to worry about chain stay (frame) clearance."Right sized thickness" is determined by your situation. Any steel washer with the right sized hole and thickness will work.Yes, you need to set up your chain rings for the best possible chain link.If not, what size (inner/outer diameter, width) spacer would I need?.Is this a simple swap of the chainrings?.Do I need to worry about the chain line?.I want to convert a 1-piece crank triple chainring to a double. I've read that 7-speed freewheels are an easy upgrade, but I have an indexed twist shifter, so that route also involves a shifter change. Another option is to replace the 6-speed freewheel, but I haven't found one that is geared "bigger" than currently equipped 14t. I'd prefer the higher top-end of a 52t if possible. The ebike is driven by a hub motor, so I don't need to worry about the higher gears putting more strain on the drivetrain.Īlternatives: The most straightforward option would be to swap in a 48t triple. So I want to swap out my current 42/x/x triple to a 52/40 double. A quick perusal of ebay shows 52/40t double chainrings for 1-piece cranks. I find myself "running out of gears." I counted the big ring at 42 teeth. I recently converted an old junker "mountain-style" bike to an ebike with a conversion kit. Reasons, or what I'm trying to accomplish: I want a higher gear ratio. Is this a simple swap of the chainrings? If not, what size (inner/outer diameter, width) spacer would I need?
Do I need to worry about the chain line? Do I need a spacer of some sort?
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